It’s time for one of my favorite seasonals: pumpkin beer. While it’s somewhat annoying that – because of their recent overwhelming popularity – pumpkin ales now ship as early as July, I feel comfortable today that it’s officially autumn, and officially time to drink a distinctly fall beer.

Punkin Ale is one of Dogfish Head’s oldest beers, and gets its name from an event that’s legendary in the brewery’s home state of Delaware. Punkin Chunkin is a November contest that centers around the pitching of rotten pumpkins 4000 feet in the air with a catapult. In 1994, six months before the brewery even opened, Punkin Ale won first place in the Punkin Chunkin recipe contest, and thus the nomenclature was born.

As the top showing attests, Punkin Ale is a great example of what a pumpkin beer should be. It’s classic example of the style, even though it’s brewed with brown sugar (most aren’t). It’s medium bodied, medium colored and medium spiced. It doesn’t knock you over with the sugar (that would be more reflective of a Christmas ale), and delivers a substantial taste of spiced pumpkin. There’s an argument in the brewer community over whether using pumpkin flesh – instead of extract – is just a marketing gimmick. Take whichever side you wish, just know this beer uses real pumpkin, to great effect.

Some pumpkin beers are thin. Not this one. The frame is sturdy and the flavor fills in any potential gaps.The color is somewhere between copper and auburn, and the head, though dissipating quickly to non-existence, pours a friendly and welcoming tan. Clarity is high and carbonation takes the form of teeny bubbles that meander upward as their mood strikes.

Pairings are versatile for this 7% ABV ale. The Dogfish website recommends roasted duck, lamb, and dessert dumplings (whatever those are), but it was also perfect as a creative compliment to a butternut squash, arugula and nutmeg cinnamon vinaigrette salad from Philly’s Varga Bar. It’s also great to cook with; find a set of recipes that range from soup to bread to ice cream here.

Photo courtesy Flickr user edwin.bautista