Bar Review: 13.5% Wine Bar
When you first enter 13.5%, you’re welcomed by the refined air of a high-end oenophile haven. After a moment, a welcome hint of earthy hipness puts you at ease, especially when you remember where you are. The wine bar is located in the heart of Hampden, on the Avenue, across from the infamous Café Hon. Small dining tables up front expand to a comfortable lounge area in the back, both perfect for gathering with small groups of friends to partake in the delicious wines that line the left wall.
Owner Wayne Laing previously ran Baltimore vino source Wine Underground, and is bringing his expertise in quality selections at low costs to this new venture. Over 40 wines by the glass and more than 200 by the bottle are priced extremely reasonably, with minimal corkage fees to promote in-house enjoyment. A series of wine flights change often, and feature pours of three related vintages – such as a trio of pinot noirs from around the world – for $12–$18 or so.
Cocktails are also on offer, including seven specialties served over ice, such as a Pimm’s Cup or the maple-whiskey-and-ginger Cast Your Lot. Another half-dozen are presented without rocks, like the mezcal-prosecco-St. Germain Violet Hour or a cucumber mint gimlet. These crafty mixed drinks will set you back no more than $10, with most priced at $8 or $9. Six taps pour local crafts, abetted by another two dozen bottles from around the globe.
The beverages complement a creative “bar snacks” menu from chef Sarah Acconcia (formerly at Woodberry Kitchen), with options like thyme-roasted hazelnuts, caramelized onion dip (both $5) and seared foie gras with asparagus and quail eggs (at $15, by far the most expensive item on the list).
Happy hour specials change daily. All day on Tuesdays, there corkage fee ($8) is waived for any bottle currently on the wine wall. Wednesdays from 4–7 PM sees half-off all drafts, while on Thursdays it’s $2 off any glass of wine. From 1–5 PM on Fridays and Saturdays, bottled beers are half-price, as are panini. All antipasti are half-off on Sundays (the bar is closed on Mondays).
On a recent autumn evening, 13.5% was the only bar of all those lining 36th Ave that showed any sign of life. Hipsters, yuppies and older professionals alike dotted the room in small clusters of two–four, some perusing the aforementioned wall of wine bottles but most already tucked into their beverage of choice.
The bar, however, sat empty, which turned out well for our visit. The lone bartender was a wealth of information, not only regarding the wine selection but also the beer offerings and small plate menu. It was a Tuesday ($8 off wines on the wall), so two bottles were purchased, a red malbec (Auka 2008 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina) and a pinot grigio (Colterenzio 2009 Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige,Italy). We also sampled the Ephemere Apple, a white ale from Canadian-based Unibroue not commonly found around these parts.
The malbec was full bodied and had a smooth finish, whereas the pinot grigio had crisp tang and slightly sour aftertaste. Amusingly, the beer was the star of the evening, with its full body and slight apple aftertaste. For a small venue, 13.5% provides an impressively high level of service, maintains an upscale wine selection at reasonable prices, and still keeps with the down-to-earth vibe of the neighborhood.
1117 W. 36th St.; (410) 889-1064
Photos courtesy the restaurant on Facebook